Our old friends John and Ruby Eichenour, who lived in Veracruz for 2 years a few years ago, agreed to meet us there for a 10 day vacation starting January 6. They are outstanding dancers and have a great appreciation of the Cuban music that is so ubiquitous in Veracruz. In fact we first met them in 1999 in Cuba where we were all studying Afro-Cuban drumming and dancing. We first heard about Danzón from them some years ago, when they were teaching a Danzón class in Moab, Utah. Since then they’ve moved on to concentrate more on Son Cubano. Meanwhile, we’ve plunged into Danzón completely. Veracruz is the popular center of Danzón in México. The Veracruz Zócalo is the pinnacle of places to dance Danzón. So we were of course ready.

• Don and Lois among Danzón dancers in the Veracruz Zócalo Don and Lois among Danzón dancers in the Veracruz Zócalo
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John and Ruby had reserved a very nice suite for us next door to theirs in the Hotel Capri, a 15 minute walk from the Zócalo. Our flight from Albany (via Cleveland and Houston) brought us to Veracruz at 11pm. At 11:30, Ruby and John greeted us when we arrived, tired and happy, at Hotel Capri.

• Don and Lois at Pemex building Don and Lois at Pemex building
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The next morning, they treated us to breakfast, and took us on a walking tour of the city. The gulf breezes made it comfortable, even when temperatures rose to the low 80s. That was great for sleeping, as our room was on the 3rd floor (4th, counting US style) and only 1 block from the ocean. We were delighted to be able to dance in the Zócalo that very night.

Visit to Tlacotalpan